Akademik Veri Yönetim Sistemi
Tezin Türü: Doktora
Tezin Yürütüldüğü Kurum: Tabriz Islamic Art University, Islamic arts FAculty, İran
Tezin Onay Tarihi: 2022
Tezin Dili: Farsça
Öğrenci: Reihaneh Rashidi
Asıl Danışman (Eş Danışmanlı Tezler İçin): Mahdı Mohammadzadeh
Özet:
Jewelry has always indicated cultural, political, and social values. Contemporary jewelry making, a
product of the paradigm of "contemporariness", challenges classic and modern assumptions such as using
precious materials and supposing jewelry as a feminine, meaningless, and decorative artifact. Studying
Iranian Contemporary Jewelry from a discourse point of view leads to understanding the origins of its
developments due to its connection with social streams while helping to know its artistic aspects.
Therefore, the present research aims to study and understand the most important factors and discourses
affecting the changes and developments that have occurred in Iran's contemporary jewelry. For this
purpose, it tries to answer the main question of what are the most important discourses that have played
a role in the development of Iranian Contemporary Jewelry and how has Iranian Contemporary Jewelry
been affected by them? and the two subsidiary questions of what are the most important components of
Iran's contemporary jewelry? and what are the main reasons for the developments in Iran's contemporary
jewelry and the emergence of new experiences and streams in it?
This research is a study of the type of theoretical development and it is qualitative in terms of
methodology. The works have been analyzed using critical discourse analysis and Fairclough's
theoretical method in three levels of description, interpretation, and explanation to analyze the meaning
of the conceptual implications of Iranian contemporary jewelry. The samples were selected purposefully
and it has been tried to select the works that represent contemporary jewelry and are in line with the goals
of the research. Thus, the works of leading and well-known artists in this field and the works exhibited
in foreign and domestic events such as the four editions of the "Tehran's Contemporary Artistic Jewelry
Exhibition" in the Aria gallery were selected.
The results show that the feminist discourse criticizes female decorative tendencies and changes the
concept of decoration while providing the grounds for critical conceptualism, the issue of embodiment,
as well as the expression of women-oriented issues in contemporary jewelry. Additionally, while
expressing the global issues and components and the emergence of global identity, the discourse of globalization indicates the necessity of returning to localism by using local features and elements with
global-local identity in the design of contemporary jewelry. Challenging and criticizing concepts and
principles accepted in classical and modern jewelry making, especially the decorative nature of the
jewelry, by prioritizing the conceptual aspect and artistic expression as a cultural media, contemporary
jewelry making provides a platform for the expression of social and political thoughts and the active
presence of artists. Therefore, jewelry design emphasizes conceptual design in the contemporary period
by going through classical design (which emphasized symbolism) and modernist design (which
emphasized formalism). In addition, contemporary jewelry has changed in the context of a set of
components such as changes in the semantic system (from decorative tendencies to conceptualization),
materials and manufacturing methods (from gold and precious materials to special and diverse materials
and methods outside the scope of traditional goldsmithing), the title of the manufacturer (from craftsman
to the artist), the application and size of jewelry (going out of traditional frameworks such as bangles or
bracelets), the distribution methods (from shops to galleries), and the market (from mass market to
limited market)